Prada FW08 | Fallen Shadows

Friday, July 21, 2006

Solitaire elegance yet again...

Phoenix to the Flame
It's been disappointing for seasons with Dior Homme, I even feel sorry for how DH turned into styling instead of designing. However, A/H 06 is a defile which could remotely reminds us of the aesthetic we once knew & loved (a la Solitaire) collection, & I luv it. As i was reading some of the critiques from forums and reports, i wasn't quite sure if most of you/us, whomever is a fan of DH...had stopped to see pass the fabrics & cuts, if it was 'ready-to-wear' (or 'couture'?!), to actually see the symbolisim that Hedi has given us thru the show (as a whole) with its darkness, & yet it once spoke out loud even if you try to ignore. Yes, A/H 06's shape recalled to previous collections, and as far as i can tell that doesn't seem to be that big of a shock to fans of Hedi's work, because we've seen wider trousers at his YSL. And as a hard core DH fan, it's the rocker tees, the music influences, the trend, and of cos the hype & so-called cult killed DH, those were influence from his personal hobbies/life... call it "hedi's rocker phase" if you like, and he was not doing a good job as a designer. When the name Dior Homme came to mind, it most certainly did not bring images of tees or thrift store chic(whatever that means). Most people grew with that, became comfortable with it, and boys thought they could rack up in thrift store waistcoats, tight jeans, tanks, throw on a yard of material as a scarf, and bang!- i'm luxurious, because it's dior homme per se. It was so much of a hype, and like every hype- it fades. Therefore, purely personal opinion, I am glad all those hip/music/rock/brit pop hype phase have come to an end. FULL STOP. PAST TENSE. If you look deeper, DH is now what it's always meant to be- risky, seriously exclusive, slightly twisted, dangerously sexy(Saint Laurentesque), extremely hard to pull off, certainly not for everyone & anyone; those tees, jeans et al were just way too easy for the stylist (not designer) and the wearer, it was easy money to make for sure. Time to go back to structured, intrigued, details & delicacy... the real Dior Homme par Hedi Slimane. This is a sense of renewal, as if- all the old clothes were burning in the back, and not just the clothes, the attitude as well, the over-confident Dior boy was just a mess. I mean, where could he have gone after P/E06?.... who on earth'd wanna look like Pete Doherty anyway?! If you like thin white duke, voila, this is the true duke. Overall, the attitude & asthetic of Dior Homme have become a lifestyle, whether you're a Dior garcon/man or not, i wonder, and hope, that this is a landmark with which will clearly seperate those who can relate to the real tour de force. It's like the last breath of air/the last drum beat, time to shape up; clean up, to return to what the true Dior Homme should be. I've been longing to sth exactly like this A/H 06 defile, instead of leather bomber baseball jkt, as a luxurious brand & Hedi as a designer, it was deceiving, disgraceful, lack of sincerity, and also pretentious when I read about his interview in the UK Vogue, describing himself a designer cum artist cum photographer cum whatever he claimed himself to be. IMO, he kinda lost track, & of cos, self-claimed "artist" in a self-concious way has never been chic, & as a french, he should know better. That was the moment when I thought about giving DH all up completely. Luckily, in came this show, another disirable DH collection yet again. This is not about the designer, we are over that designer-driven era now (see how hard Tom Ford's tried?), this is about clothes, the cutting, the fit, the elegant gesture that comes along with the garment, all these I find from no other brands but Dior once offered, and now reappeared.

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